Motorcycle chain length calculator

Choose the chain size, enter the number of sprocket teeth and the centre distance – the calculator works out the number of links and the chain length.

Result

Recommended number of links links
Calculated number of links
Chain length mm

See 520 chains

Results are calculated estimates. Always check your vehicle manufacturer's instructions.

Chain sizes – what does 520 mean?

The three-digit motorcycle chain size is based on inch measurements:

  • The first digit is the pitch (distance between pins) in eighths of an inch: 5 = 5/8" = 15.88 mm.
  • The last two digits are the inner width between the plates: 20 = 2.0/8" = 1/4" = 6.35 mm.
  • Smaller chains (04C, 25H, 219H, T8F, 270H, 35H) do not follow this code – their pitch is given in the table. The chain and sprockets must always have exactly the same designation.
SizePitchInner widthRoller diameterTypical use
04C 1/4" / 6.35 mm 3.18 mm 3.30 mm Small 49 cc mopeds, minibikes, go-karts (ANSI 25)
25H 1/4" / 6.35 mm 3.18 mm 3.30 mm Pocket bikes, mini ATVs, 49 cc minibikes – heavy-duty 25 chain
219H 7.77 mm 5.00 mm 4.59 mm Go-karts, some small scooters and mini ATVs
T8F* 8.00 mm 4.70 mm 4.70 mm Pocket bikes, mini dirt bikes and small electric vehicles
270H 8.50 mm 4.75 mm 5.00 mm Small ATVs and mopeds, internal engine chains
35H 3/8" / 9.53 mm 4.77 mm 5.08 mm Some kids' dirt bikes and mini ATVs (ANSI 35, heavy-duty plates)
415 1/2" / 12.70 mm 4.76 mm 7.77 mm Mopeds, small classic motorcycles
420 1/2" / 12.70 mm 6.25 mm 7.77 mm 50–125 cc motocross bikes, minibikes, pit bikes
428 1/2" / 12.70 mm 7.75 mm 8.51 mm 125–250 cc street and off-road bikes
520 5/8" / 15.88 mm 6.25 mm 10.16 mm 250–650 cc bikes, motocross and enduro, track 520 conversions
525 5/8" / 15.88 mm 7.95 mm 10.16 mm Most modern sport and touring bikes (600–1000 cc+)
530 5/8" / 15.88 mm 9.40 mm 10.16 mm Powerful and heavy motorcycles, older classics
532 5/8" / 15.88 mm 9.53 mm 11.11 mm Older large-displacement motorcycles (1970s–1980s)
630 3/4" / 19.05 mm 9.40 mm 11.91 mm Older powerful Japanese motorcycles (e.g. Kawasaki Z1)

* not an ISO/ANSI standard chain, dimensions may vary between manufacturers. Roller and pin dimensions may vary slightly between manufacturers (DID, RK, EK etc.) and chain types (standard, heavy duty, O-/X-ring).

How to measure the pitch?

The pitch is the distance from the centre of one pin to the centre of the next. If the chain has no marking, measure between the centres of two adjacent pins with a caliper: 12.70 mm is a 4xx chain, 15.88 mm a 5xx chain and 19.05 mm a 6xx chain.

Chain types – standard, O-, X- and XW-ring

Motorcycle chains are either non-sealed (standard) or sealed (ring) chains. Sealed chains differ in the cross-section of the rubber ring.

Standard chain (non-sealed)

The simplest chain with no seals between the links. The factory grease wears or washes out quickly, so the chain must be lubricated often.

  • Pros: cheap; no seal friction, the chain runs most freely
  • Cons: stretches and wears quickly, needs constant maintenance
  • Use: mopeds, 50–125 cc bikes, vintage bikes and motocross racing, where chains are replaced often anyway

O-ring chain

Rubber rings with a round cross-section between the inner and outer plates keep the factory grease at the pins and dirt and water out.

  • Pros: lasts several times longer than a standard chain, needs less maintenance (mainly the rollers need lubrication)
  • Cons: the rings add friction, the chain is slightly stiffer
  • Use: street and touring bikes, everyday riding

X-ring chain

The ring has an X-shaped cross-section, so the seal has four small lips instead of two large contact surfaces.

  • Pros: clearly less friction than an O-ring, holds the grease even better, usually a longer life
  • Cons: more expensive
  • Use: sport bikes, powerful touring bikes, off-road bikes that need reliability

XW-, W- and Z-ring (manufacturer designs)

Top manufacturers (e.g. RK, DID, EK) have developed the X-ring idea further: profiles with several sealing lips protect better against dust and sand and flex so that friction does not increase.

  • Pros: best protection and longest life
  • Cons: the most expensive
  • Use: enduro and long trips in dusty conditions, very powerful street and track bikes

Quick comparison

Chain typeMaintenanceLifeFrictionPrice
StandardVery high (after every longer ride)ShortLowestCheap
O-ringMedium (about every 500–800 km)LongNoticeableMid-range
X-ringLowVery longLowUpper range
XW- / Z-ringMinimalLongestLowPremium
Matching products: Chains

How to use

  1. Check the chain size on the old chain or in the service manual (e.g. 520).
  2. Read the number of teeth on the sprockets – it is usually stamped on the sprocket.
  3. Measure from the centre of the front sprocket shaft to the centre of the rear axle, with the rear wheel in the middle of its adjustment range.
  4. Use the recommended even number of links – the chain is joined with a master link, so the number of links must be even.

Frequently asked questions

Why must the number of links be even?

A chain alternates inner and outer links, so the ends can only be joined with an even number of links. An odd number needs an offset (half) link, which is not recommended on motorcycles.

Can I fit a 520 chain instead of a 525?

Yes, if you replace both sprockets with 520 sprockets at the same time. The chain and sprockets must always be the same size.

How accurate is the result?

The formula is exact, but measuring the centre distance always has a small error. If the result is between two even numbers, choose the longer chain and adjust the tension with the rear wheel.

When should I replace the chain?

When the chain has stretched, links have stiffened or the sprocket teeth are worn to sharp points. Replace the chain and both sprockets together.

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